OB400: Advanced Heeling and Problem Solving

LECTURE #1: COMBINING HEELING GAMES WITH PRECISION; BASIC CONCEPTS AND TRADEOFFS

Placement of rewards: The Tradeoffs

Selecting the correct motivators: The Tradeoffs

Your attitude and energy: The Tradeoffs

SKILL LIST #1: STRAIGHT LINES (ERRORS, SOLUTIONS AND COUNTERACTING MOVEMENTS)

LAGGING

Heeling Practice Errors

Errors in positioning rewards:

HEELING WIDE

Handler drifts left in heeling

Heeling Practice Errors

Poor reward placement

Obstructions

FORGING

Dog Forges because of Incorrect Toy Reward Placement

Dog Forges with Food Reward

Dog Forges to see your face

CROWDING:

Avoiding corrections

Improper reward placement

Temperament/enthusiasm

BUTT OUT (CRABBING)

Avoid paying attention (braille heeling)

Fear

Trainer issues

DOG ANTICIPATES ON THE JUDGE'S COMMAND

DOG LOSES ATTENTION IN HEELING

Bored

No expectation of attention

Unclear work cues

Dog over faced with distractions

Dog gets quickly distracted

Dog is startled

LECTURE #2: UNDERSTANDING HEELING SOLUTIONS

Make dog “more wrong”

Muscle Memory

Incompatible behaviors

Reward for Position

Forcing Effort and Attention

How to use training techniques

Testing

Fading Aids

When to reward

SKILL LIST #2: TURNS: ERRORS, SOLUTIONS AND COUNTERACTING MOVEMENTS

LEFT TURNS

Forging

Does not see the turn coming

Does not pull rear in after turn

Lagging on left turns

RIGHT TURNS

Forging

Bumping

Wide

ABOUT TURNS

Forging

Lagging

Wide

LECTURE #3: ERRORS OF DISTRESS (Fear, Discomfort, Frustration, Worry)

whining and barking

heeling too close

vocalization NOT caused by worry or distress

SKILL LIST #3: CHANGE OF PACE: ERRORS, SOLUTIONS AND COUNTERACTING MOVEMENTS

Lagging into fast pace wide into the fast pace

Crowds in the fast pace

Forging into fast pace

Slow to decelerate from Fast Pace

Decelerates before end of Fast Pace

Crowds in the fast pace

Wide in slow pace

Position Drifting randomly in a slow pace

Loss of attention in slow pace

Slow acceleration from halt to regular pace

Forges from sit at halt to normal pace

LECTURE #4: TRAINING VS. TRIALING

SKILL LIST #4: HALTS: ERRORS, SOLUTIONS AND COUNTERACTING MOVEMENTS

Slow halts

Hydraulic sit/hover butt

Crooked halt (Butt out)

No sit

Crooked halt (butt in)

SKILL LIST #5: THE FIGURE EIGHT

Dog does not accelerate on the start, or outside corner, or tends to lag anywhere in the figure eight

The start - dog does not move out of the way to the left

Forges or bumps at any point in the figure eight

Knowledge from earlier classes (heeling games and precision heeling) will be assumed. Most students will still do very well even without those classes.

Equipment: None

Space required: Large enough for basic heeling training. This assumes access to a space about half the size of a competition ring.

FORGING

Dog Forges because of Incorrect Toy Reward Placement

This is extremely common when dogs are trained with toys. Many people offer toy rewards either forward (throwing a ball is an example) or in the front of their body (to play tug). Both of these errors make forging (and wrapping) extremely common. Here are two examples of toy presentation that will create forging and crowding 1) throwing balls straight ahead and 2) tugging back into your body:

You can either switch to food as the reward for heeling or use the toys in a fashion that reinforces correct heeling position rather than a forged one. If you choose to use a toy for the reward, here are some possible positions to offer the toy: 1) on the ground and send the dog back to it; 2) straight down; or 3) back behind the dog (dog must turn out).

Note that the toy is always passed behind the back and to the right hand to reward - coming from the front will exacerbate the problem:

Dog Forges with Food Reward

If you have a higher drive dog that forges as much out of temperament as much as reward placement, here is a technique for you to try:

Feed behind your butt! The goal is to offset the dog’s innate desire to forge with reward placement - this tends to cause dogs to end up in the middle (over time): It is important that you force the dog to go back behind your back three fingers and to take the food from the pocket hand position - this keeps the rear end in. Here is Raika showing correct food, hand and finger placement:

Here is the same technique with a small dog:

Finally, In addition to food placement, watch for your criteria - are you catching errors of forging on the very first step or are you ignoring them for many steps in a row? If you ignore nine steps of forging and then attempt to fix the issue on the tenth step, your dog will not understand what you are trying to communicate and frustration and confusion often makes forging worse in a driven dog.

Dog Forges to see your face

Some dogs forge because they want to look up at you. Personally, I let dogs select their own focal point. I offer the pocket hand to put them in correct position and then I let them select on their own. If I am happy with how it looks, then I leave it alone. But if you taught your dog to watch your face and he then defaults to that in movement, then you need to re-evaluate the position of your pocket hand. Is it at your side in the correct position? Does your dog push their head against your hand or is your hand just sitting there while your dog’s head ignores it? If the dog uses your hand as a guide correctly, and if your hand is in the proper position then there is no way he can end up too far forward - all you’d have to do is move your hand back a bit to reset a better position. Every time your dog begins to forge, you must instantly put them back. But...don’t get in the habit of walking with your hand on your dog’s head - it is a “correction”. When the dog is correct, then take your hand off and let them try it alone for a step or two. If your dog succeeds, reward! Try it:). Here Cisu’s forging is extremely minor, but I still offer the pocket hand to fix her and then I remove it as quickly as possible. I also say “easy” when I use the pocket, so that she can learn the meaning of the word:

Dog Forges. Who knows why?

Sometimes we do everything right (we think, anyway) and STILL the dog forges! We are past the point of frequently rewarding the dog in training and we need a way to allow the dog some success even when we have nothing to offer. Try this game - the basis is a “fly” from heeling games, but now the fly is BEHIND the dog instead of ahead.

It looks like this with Raika: Note that the first several times I am actually teaching her to do it, and therefore I reward her for each successful repetition. Then I send her on a fly (behind) and continue with heeling. If you watch her carefully, you’ll see she begins to be on the verge of LAGGING, which is very atypical for her. Once your dog knows this behavior, you could do several fly’s within a heeling pattern without rewarding them at all. Most dogs enjoy “fly”.