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I teach a lot of skill-based classes. You will find that I write several short lectures a week and illustrate them with several short (usually 30 seconds or so) clips. The videos are designed to illustrate the lecture. Homework is specific and the same for everyone in the class and will follow a set path.
Week 1
Motion Override
Focus Forward
Drive & Commitment Games
Planks Part 1
Body Awareness
Wobble Board
Week 2
Targeting Part 1
Love the Bang!
Week 3
Stair & Planks, Oh My!
Targeting Part 2
It's All About the End!
The Bang Game Part 1
Week 4
Target Part 3
The Bang Game Part 2
Elevator Game Part 1
Target Part 4
Week 5
Fading and Back Chaining
Full Contacts
Week 6
Elevator Game Part 2
Elevator Game Part 3
Elevator Game Part 4
Teeter Tour
Week 1 Assignment 1
Motion Override
We all have the dream of seeing our dogs drive to the end of the contacts and into perfect position regardless of what we are doing. The thought of being able to drive past and leave them to do their job while we get to our next position is the stuff of legends for some us but not for long! Over the next several weeks we are going to learn all kinds of games that will help your dog to have the amazing 2on2off contacts you have always dreamed of.
The key to exceptional 2o2o stopped contacts is the behavior being completely independent of our motion. Most dogs are motion sensitive and our handling is almost completely based on motion. The Motion Override Game teaches our dogs to ignore our motion and continue to do the desired behavior.
The 2o2o contact is a control position, as is a sit, down or stand. We expect the dog to assume the position when cued as fast as possible and remain in the position until released. This also helps train the handler’s eye to watching for maintained criteria while the handler is moving.
Step 1: Get your dog excited through either play or having them chase you back and forth. Starting at a very slow walk, ask for a sit or a down. Use the one your dog finds easier. For instance, most Border Collies find a down pretty easy to do. Do not stop moving until the dog has made the decision to sit or down. Even if you have to just walk in place. Once they have made the decision, release quickly to play or you can go back and reward the position. Mix it up so your dog has a different reward each time.
If the dog makes a mistake and offers a different behavior, you can play the That’s Crap GameJYou will gently push them out of position, move to a new area with no tug or cookies and start again.
Once they are successful you can move to jogging then running. You can also mix up the cues by sometimes asking for a down and throwing in some sits to keep them thinking.
Have Fun!

Faculty
Barbara Currier (she/her) got involved with agility shortly after adopting her Chihuahua. In 2004, Barbara and her husband Michael were relocated to VA and shortly after she started teaching agility at All Dog Adventures (fka All Dog Playskool) in Richmond, VA. (Click here for full bio and to view Barbara's upcoming courses)...