Want a strong, motivated retrieve of the dumbell and a good foundation for utility exercises? Join me as I teach you how to create a firm hold, the end skill in the complex retrieve chain. Our basic goal is a dog who thinks that holding skill is the best part of the whole thing, and hurries to get there when we ask for a retrieve. Importantly, we'll also be covering how to create a dog that starts the action and demands the opportunity to hold the dumbell, a crucial part of achieving total "buy in" from your learner dog. Teaching a hold is hard and sometimes we as handlers need that information from our dogs.
Want a strong, motivated retrieve of the dumbell and a good foundation for utility exercises? Join me as I teach you how to create a firm hold, the end skill in the complex retrieve chain. Our basic goal is a dog who thinks that holding skill is the best part of the whole thing, and hurries to get there when we ask for a retrieve. Importantly, we'll also be covering how to create a dog that starts the action and demands the opportunity to hold the dumbell, a crucial part of achieving total "buy in" from your learner dog. Teaching a hold is hard and sometimes we as handlers need that information from our dogs.
This class is for creating a formal retrieve, not for retrieving toys. (that information can be found in the toy class!) Dogs are expected to be strongly motivated by either food or to have the basic toy skills (bringing back to drop or tug, and dropping toy on ground as well as shaping witin the toy game concepts) if the handler wants to use toy skills as a reinforcement.
We will spend some time on refining both food and toy reinforcements, figuring out what is the most exciting for teaching this hard behavior.
Other skills needed:
Teaching Approach:
Bullet points, lecture and short videos outlining each step. Printed steps, minimal talking in the actual videos.
Progression:
Hold step 2: Combining grab and chin rest
Basics needed:
Steps:
We’re going to use the chin rest to up your chances of getting calm holding rather than chewing.
I usually use food as a reward for this step, but if the dog needs a toy reward to encourage grasping harder, I don’t hesitate to switch to a ball or tug. At this point, I will always be playing with Switch in between each 5 repetition set to encourage arousal and hard gripping even if still shaping with food reward.
I let my dog offer a couple grabs, and then I put the holding object under my arm and ask for a couple chin rests, rewarding each grab and each chin rest.
Then I present the object again, holding it at each end with my thumb and first finger, and letting the other 3 fingers of each hand fan out underneath. When the dog grabs, I quickly bring my fingers up to touch the dog’s chin, and then just as quickly, cue the marker word. You are trying to get the dog used to the pressure of fingers under his chin while grabbing the object and get him through any initial startle response he may have. Most of the time I only touch 2 fingers initially, and then a couple repetitions later (assuming all is going well), stick all 3 fingers of each hand under the dog’s chin.
If you think it may help, you can use your chin verbal cue as well.
I then alternate chin rest without object, and chin rest with object until I get a Freeze type behavior on the chin rest with object repetition, the same freeze that you get with the plain chin rest.
Here are Rachel and Pele showing an excellent progression of grab, then chin rest, and then combining the two:
Their next step would be getting a 2 second duration "freeze" behavior before removing any thumbs or fingers.
Here are Debbie and Sarek showing this:
Once I get the freeze with the object in the dog's mouth and full chin rest under his chin, I start to remove my thumbs from either end. At this point, I can also stop alternating with the plain chin rest. If at any time, the grip softens or the dog starts to chew, I can go back to holding the magazine with my thumbs.
Here is Manchita and Stacey working through this step. Manchita is a Mexican Hairless, otherwise known as a Xoloitzcuintle. Here they are starting to remove her thumbs from the holding of the magazine. Notice how she still keeps her fingers under Manchita's chin with full chin rest.
When the dog is comfortable at this step, I would start to remove my "chin fingers" one by one.
Testing the grip:
At some point in this process, most dogs normally starts to chew, or chomp, or let the magazine fall out of his mouth, etc... I have a couple things I try at this point.
Wait out the chomping. Often the dog chews, and then gives still mouth, chews, and then still mouth. if I make sure that I only mark when the mouth is still, often the chewing/chomping goes away on it's own as the dog learns the behavior that pays is still mouth.
Re present the magazine. If the mouth is moving, I can often just take the magazine out of the dog's mouth, wait for attention and then present the magazine again. I generally do not do this unless I have a 2 second freeze with full chin rest, and I've tried waiting out the behavior of chomping.
Communicate that harder gripping is wanted by very gently pushing with one of my thumbs in either an upwards or downwards pressure. When I feel the dog grip harder in opposition reflex, I mark and reinforce. The idea is not to set the dog up to fail, but to communicate that harder gripping is valuable. You can also pull gently towards you IF that does not make the dog go into tugging mode.
Here is Baylie and I working through some testing of the grip. Notice my easy repetitions among the hard ones:
Faculty
Shade Whitesel (she/her) has been training and competing in dog sports since she was a kid. Always interested in how dogs learn, she has successfully competed in IPO/schutzhund, AKC obedience and French Ring. Her retired dog, Reiki vom Aegis, IPO 3, FH 1, French Ring 1, CDX, was 5th at the...
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This is the first online class I have taken. Although I took it at the bronze level, I was amazed at how much I got out of it and couldn't wait to try the exercises and share them with my training partners. As an inexperienced handler with little competition experience, I was nervous. There was no need to worry. Denise accepts her students, canine and human, right where they are. She is very clear that you don’t have to keep up, make comparisons or master it all in the 6 week session. Her feedback is prompt, frequent and right to the point. As she discusses areas that need work, she is encouraging and reinforcing. I always felt like wagging my tail and working harder after every interchange. Getting to know and watch the other students is fun and instructive. I am looking forward to taking classes regularly through the Fenzi Academy. And I highly recommend that you go for the gold!
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Read all testimonialsI've taken a number of classes by a number of instructors at FDSA. I appreciate how well they overlap, and that the message is often the same despite who's teaching.The FDSA online site is so great! Not complicated; it has been easy to use. I am really impressed with Denise's mission to bring into her Academy absolutely top-notch instructors! Plus, I really love the 3-tier options for her students! With these options, the online courses are affordable for everyone that is interested in improving their dog training skills and building the best relationship with their dog(s) -- whether they do, or plan on doing dog performance sports, or just want to spend time with their dog and have a well-trained dog ... a dog that is a wonderful representative to the community at-large....all achieved with positive training methods! The depth of knowledge that i am getting from the classes I am taking is invaluable. It has opened a door to training and overall learning for me that I wouldn't be able to get elsewhere. I am in a power wheelchair and finding transportation to classes is often difficult for me. These online classes have given me the guidance I've needed to stay focused and motivated to work with my dog.
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